silverse2m6 said:These are euro models only I believe. Where are you located?
daromer said:If in us i suggest other model to be honest. 48v is alot better if ur doing high current stuff.
The Good about hybrid is that it does it all. Off grid. Grid tie or what every you wang
Korishan said:A 48V/110-120V is acceptable. If you can find one that can do 240V split phase (US standard wiring; 3 wires. EU has 240V on 2 wires), even better.
Here in the US, to go with that configuration, you are more than likely going to need to use 2 separate devices. One inverter and one charger (to start; more can be added as your needs grow)
Grid-Tie is a completely different animal. The only way for you to have certified Grid-Tie with Emergency Shutoff Transfer Switch is buy an expensive unit and have a licensed contractor install it. Otherwise, you'll get into a LOT of trouble. Especially if someone dies because there was a storm, you weren't home to shut the unit off, and the were out there working on a downed line.
Plus, for Grid-Tie, the electric company would need to install a new digital meter (unless you already have one)
There isn't really a viable hybrid setup for the US market, for some odd reason. It seems like the EU and Aus gets the goodies before we do
Korishan said:It's hard to, but you can pull from both sources. Not recommended, in my opinion. To much to keep track of and who knows what would happen if something failed (or a lightning strike directly on the line)
There are two paths that have gone on mostly here:
1) Move circuits off the grid into a separate panel that is powered directly from the powerwall setup (which includes solar, wind, batteries, etc.)
2) Have a transfer switch that will either be on the Grid, or the internal power supply (automatic would be recommended as it would switch off from the grid in the event of a power failure)
You kind of have to decide on which path you want to take. I personally am going to go with option 1 as it's the easiest to setup, and cheapest overall.
It would be Solar -> PWM/MPPT charger -> Batteries -> Inverter. You could also have a Grid-based charger that could help charge your batteries in the event your solar is offline (storms for too long, perhaps).
For me personally, my inverter is going to be recycled Smart-UPS units. You can get them for free or super cheap. Most of the time they are non-functional because the batteries are bad. I haven't decided on a charger yet. That's still in the works. However, I will probably charge the batteries from the UPS to start with, and the shift over later as I put panels/turbines in place.
daromer said:I use 30-35kWh per day. I have 10kW + 4kW. That is minimum for me due to the fact that I easily can do 15kW during peaks when washing clothes and doing some food.
The only way to know whats enough for you is to meassure. Check your meter from time to time and see what you used per hour and day.
Korishan said:I use about 40kWh/day. And that's just 2 window units and computer/tv, refrigerator, microwave oven and toaster oven (toaster doesn't get use a whole lot).
So, if you were to use that unit at full load of 2KW, it would/should be able to put out 48KWh/day. So, for me, it'd be under powered as I'd easily go over it's ability when I add more appliances during my remodel. A 4000Watt unit would be better.
I wonder why they are making a distinction between "Personal computers" and "Home appliances". That seems kinda odd to me. The unit will put out a certain voltage regardless of whether you have an A/C window unit plugged in, or a computer plugged in. Both use 110-120V, just different amps.
Also, it's not UL listed or what ever the other safeties are. Also, in the pic that shows the circuit boards, they aren't square and uniform in installation. Kinda looks like a person did the work and not a machine. So I'd be worried about quality and workmanship with these units. Plus, they may very well be Chinese knock offs, which means they are cheap on the wiring and maybe some of the other electronics. I may not work as promised for very long.