Soldering 18650s

Geek

Geek

Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Messages
920
Hi,

I could be sure there is a thread around here somewhere about this, but I can't find it.

I have stated before that I am not comfortable soldering Li-ion cells. Given the cost and possible hazards of using battery cases (cells becoming dislodged etc). Maybe I should give it a go.

I have a few dead cells to practice on. But just a few quick questions.

I understand, run the iron hot. Solder very quickly 1/2 second max.

So what type of solder? Can I use ordinary 60/40 rosin core like I use for my other electronics. I hate lead free solder, too high a melting point, and it wrecks my soldering tips.

Thanks
 
60/40 rosin core

80w iron or bigger with a BIG tip that holds lots of heat.

Should solder in under 3 secs.
 
I use this, works fine


image_tpagzq.jpg


A 100 Watt iron, some elektronics grade solder, and flux( this one works very well), all from a local hardware store.
Make sure to use only flux andsolderfor electronics, not the plumbers stuff, it is too acetic.
You will find out the negative side will need more heat than the positive side, for me only the negative side need flux ( it also lowers the meltingpoint of the solder.)
 
wim said:
I use this, works fine


image_tpagzq.jpg


A 100 Watt iron, some elektronics grade solder, and flux( this one works very well), all from a local hardware store.
Make sure to use only flux andsolderfor electronics, not the plumbers stuff, it is too acetic.
You will find out the negative side will need more heat than the positive side, for me only the negative side need flux ( it also lowers the meltingpoint of the solder.)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I am aware not to use acid flux. 100w iron seems overkill. I might try my 50W soldering station with the copper wire mod. It holds its heat well
 
Geek said:
wim said:
I use this, works fine


image_tpagzq.jpg


A 100 Watt iron, some elektronics grade solder, and flux( this one works very well), all from a local hardware store.
Make sure to use only flux andsolderfor electronics, not the plumbers stuff, it is too acetic.
You will find out the negative side will need more heat than the positive side, for me only the negative side need flux ( it also lowers the meltingpoint of the solder.)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I am aware not to use acid flux. 100w iron seems overkill. I might try my 50W soldering station with the copper wire mod. It holds its heat well
Click to expand...

Flux is always acid, in some degree, and has to be cleaned off, 50Wis okforthe positive side, negative side is going to be hard... with the copper wire mod ? dont know...interesting...
I did need the 100 W , tried a 80 W also, but had to wait after 2 or 3 solders to give the iron time to re-heat.
 
[ATTACH said:
3861[/ATTACH]
wim pid='11934' dateline='1503300491']
Geek said:
wim said:
I use this, works fine


image_tpagzq.jpg


A 100 Watt iron, some elektronics grade solder, and flux( this one works very well), all from a local hardware store.
Make sure to use only flux andsolderfor electronics, not the plumbers stuff, it is too acetic.
You will find out the negative side will need more heat than the positive side, for me only the negative side need flux ( it also lowers the meltingpoint of the solder.)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I am aware not to use acid flux. 100w iron seems overkill. I might try my 50W soldering station with the copper wire mod. It holds its heat well
Click to expand...

Flux is always acid, in some degree, and has to be cleaned off, 50Wis okforthe positive side, negative side is going to be hard... with the copper wire mod ? dont know...interesting...
I did need the 100 W , tried a 80 W also, but had to wait after 2 or 3 solders to give the iron time to re-heat.
Click to expand...

I have a transformer based temperature controlled soldering iron. It should keep up

wim said:
Geek said:
wim said:
I use this, works fine


image_tpagzq.jpg


A 100 Watt iron, some elektronics grade solder, and flux( this one works very well), all from a local hardware store.
Make sure to use only flux andsolderfor electronics, not the plumbers stuff, it is too acetic.
You will find out the negative side will need more heat than the positive side, for me only the negative side need flux ( it also lowers the meltingpoint of the solder.)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I am aware not to use acid flux. 100w iron seems overkill. I might try my 50W soldering station with the copper wire mod. It holds its heat well
Click to expand...

Flux is always acid, in some degree, and has to be cleaned off, 50Wis okforthe positive side, negative side is going to be hard... with the copper wire mod ? dont know...interesting...
I did need the 100 W , tried a 80 W also, but had to wait after 2 or 3 solders to give the iron time to re-heat.
Click to expand...
I did it! It works. Cranked my old friend up to 400 c done. The way it should be
 

Attachments

  • image_tpagzq.jpg
    image_tpagzq.jpg
    342.8 KB · Views: 475
  • image_cxfzua.jpg
    image_cxfzua.jpg
    811 KB · Views: 233
I link my video and you can see how it looks when i solder with my pen


Roughty 7 min in.

I use an OLD soldering iron but it works still. 200w+ atleast and it gets hot.
 
daromer said:
I link my video and you can see how it looks when i solder with my pen

Roughty 7 min in.

I use an OLD soldering iron but it works still. 200w+ atleast and it gets hot.
Click to expand...

That is a lot longer than I thought a cell would withstand that kind of heat. My 50w iron does a nice job, just have to let it heat up between each cell. I think I will get a bigger iron.
 
Thats the lenght generally needed to get it flowing properly. The heat itself dissapears rather fast since its very concentrated.

I doubt you can solder it very much faster without leaving it a cold joint or not flowing it enough.
Yeah with enough mass 50W will work. The one I use does not need any heating and i can push through a pack very fast.
 
daromer said:
Thats the lenght generally needed to get it flowing properly. The heat itself dissapears rather fast since its very concentrated.

I doubt you can solder it very much faster without leaving it a cold joint or not flowing it enough.
Yeah with enough mass 50W will work. The one I use does not need any heating and i can push through a pack very fast.
Click to expand...

Any say on leaving the nickel tabs on. Solder seems to hold to nickel better than a bare cell.
 
If it does you didnt solder properly and didnt get it to flow. The solder i have done cannot be removed:)
 
daromer said:
If it does you didnt solder properly and didnt get it to flow. The solder i have done cannot be removed:)
Click to expand...

Mine only bonds to the spot welds. I guess I have to get a better iron
 
If you check my video you see how it should flow out. If it doesnt stick there is either dirt in the way or not enough mass/flux to get it to flow.
 
daromer said:
If you check my video you see how it should flow out. If it doesnt stick there is either dirt in the way or not enough mass/flux to get it to flow.
Click to expand...

I think my iron may be too cold
 
daromer said:
The solder i have done cannot be removed:)
Click to expand...

Putting JB Weld on the cell and then solder on top doesn't count :p

I actually came across an 80W Weller. It's the older model. Big tip and a fat heating element. I get's so hot the handle is very uncomfortable to hold. Altho, it's not flowing the solder properly. I can't get it to melt my thin rosin core solder. But it'll melt the 50/50 solid solder the guy gave as an added bonus. And it wouldn't flow good on the cells at all. Is there a way to properly clean the tips so they'll accept solder readily again? I don't wanna screw it up by using the wrong stuff.
 
:) If the tip is copper you can just brush it of or file it but if its iron plated (Think its iron?) then only clean with water and some plastic brush or so?

Frankly im just guessing now. i have not had to clean a tip much more than flux/tinn and then just clean it with a wire brush gently.
 
Just tested it. Magnets stick to it without issue. Hrmmm, would a brass brush work?
 
Korishan said:
Just tested it. Magnets stick to it without issue. Hrmmm, would a brass brush work?
Click to expand...

I use a paper towel to clean mine. Get it hot and scrub it. The paper seems to be abrasive enough to move most crap.

I also have a damp sponge on my soldering station, good for cleaning small crap off the tip.
 
Yeah, I tried a damp papertowel (the blue ones used for automotive cleaning) and it didn't seem to do any good. I'm not sure what's on it that's keeping it from working properly. It's getting plenty hot enough. I'm gonna hafta make some kind of handle cover to that doesn't get so hot.

Meanwhile, I await the gold child to show up in the mail soon. I'm eager to test that smart soldering iron and see how well it really performs. Maybe I'll get energetic enough to do a video on it :p
 
Perhaps it gets to hot and destroyed the tip? No idea m8 :(
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top