Opus tester - How do I know when it is done?

John

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Joined
May 4, 2017
Messages
56
Hi,

I got an Opus BT-C3400 and I am using it for the first time. I put some batteries in it this morning, and it still seems to be going. How do I know when it is done?

Thanks,

-John-
 
John said:
Hi,

I got an Opus BT-C3400 and I am using it for the first time. I put some batteries in it this morning, and it still seems to be going. How do I know when it is done?

Thanks,

-John-

I just needed a little more patience....


image_jmlllq.jpg
 
Wait till you test Sanyo red cells they can go runaway and take charge past capacity and then generate heat lots of heat.
 
Yeap just about waiting :)
 
John said:
Hi,

I got an Opus BT-C3400 and I am using it for the first time. I put some batteries in it this morning, and it still seems to be going. How do I know when it is done?

Thanks,

-John-

So far I really like my OPUS, however I have the BT-C3100. Recently I seen a vendor who is selling the euro version of the OPUS for like 14.00. You can only buy 1 every 10 days, I ordered one to test it out. I am hoping it works, but I will not hold my breath. One thing though, cycling the batteries with the OPUS can take days. I want to pull a power supply out of one of my old PC's and modify the euro supply lines to use it instead.

Here is the link on eBay, I suspect they might be bogus or a knock off, but as long as it works.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-EU-PLUG...359996?hash=item4b17b6243c:g:CBYAAOSwONBZE9W5
 
I hope it is, I plan to order a second one as soon as my 10 day waiting period expires. These are great chargers.
 
It's worth noting that some have found that the Opus has a few design flaws internally. When you get your Opus, open it up and check to make sure the Neg wire isn't running between to the terminals, or put something to make a spacer.
During normal use, this may not be a problem. But with the heavy use that we put these through, and cell testing back to back, the capacity testing can start to melt the wire coating that could potentially lead to a short.
Also, check the soldering connections to make sure they are all solid.

I can't remember who posted the original pics with the melted casing; maybe someone knows which thread it is and post a link to here.
 
There is a temp control sensor for each cell that I suspect controls the fan..... Here is a video that show fan replacement.

 
Is the "spring" looking thing on the bottom the resistor for doing the loading for the capacity test? If so, wouldn't it make more sense to have the fan blow from side-to-side as it would blow across all 4? It looks really easy to upgrade; to add a 2nd fan on the other side. Just cut into the plastic casing to make room for the second fan and piggy back off the other fan connection.

Update: LOL nm, I see that the "spring" looking things, are, well, SPRINGS!! :p I didn't notice the slots at first. But, with that said, where are the load resistors? Is it the large square grey part with 150 printer on it?
 
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