Beginners Guide to Processing 18650 Cells | Cell Database


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Opus BT-C3100 v2.2 Review and Discussion
#11
Ok, I went ahead and pulled mine apart to see what is going on. The most obvious connectors turned out to be 4 LEDs that provide the back lighting. With all the screws off the back, the LEDs can be gently pulled away, and the whole display assembly comes right off. The clear plastic cover is held on by a couple plastic tabs and can also be carefully pulled away. Now, this is where things get weird. The actual display board seems to get its power or display instructions or whatever from a series of flat pins on the circuit board. It seems to be transferred through a black piece of rubber sandwiched in between two pink pieces of rubber. I assume the process is somehow accomplished by magic.
[Image: de02a9e6d3cc80c7d701f85f5edb1c3f.jpg]

The best I could figure to do was to wipe both surfaces off with a microfiber cloth, and put it all back together. During reassembly, I noticed that two of the screws on the back of the circuit board went into the two posts of the plastic display housing. That keeps the top part in place, but the bottom part with the magic data rubber is still free to move around, and doesn't fully contact the pins on the board. Turns out there are two more screws that sandwich the display between the circuit board and the front outer casing, and that seems to push the rubber thing into full contact with the pins.

[Image: 519cf7f4c0beaa924968bb81252f3fdd.jpg]
(So the two top screws secure the top of the display, and do not need to be removed in order to remove the circuit board. The bottom two screws hold the bottom of the display in place but do need to be removed in order to remove the circuit board.)

Cleaning the connector, re-positioning it, or just tightening the screws around it seems to have done the trick. Tightening the screws, probably. Not only did I not break it worse, but it actually seems to work fine now. I've bumped it, twisted it, squeezed it, and pressed on it to try to recreate the issue, but it seems to be working fine now.
[Image: f349c2e32d73837f335167b409023f51.jpg]
Korishan likes this post
-Mike G
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#12
Yeah, that rubber connector is what I was talking about needs to be aligned properly. If you took it apart before, you didn't get back together straight. Or, during shipment it was jarred sideways.
I'm not sure how you make sure it's aligned. But I see you got it back together just fine Smile

Glad you got it fixed
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#13
(08-15-2017, 03:04 PM)jesusangel Wrote: I just notice that one of my OPUs have a faulty port, one cell leaked and damaged something.




You can clean it with alcohol wen it is opened or use wd40 and spray it into the slot.
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#14
(08-27-2017, 12:50 AM)Robert Baumer Wrote: I have had a different problem, one of my slots just keeps reading random information even when there is no battery in the slow. I contacted the seller which stated they needed a video of the issue to send to the vendor in China. They offered me 30% refund, initially I was pissed, but I eventually took it as it was getting to be too much of a hassle. So I lost one slot, the other 3 seem to be working good. I wish there was a charger which could tell you the health of the battery. 

Ok, guys, I think I damaged the slot with heat. I noticed yesterday when I was charging Duracell 2650  AA that it was a burner, I mean a extreme burner. It did not leak, but I had to pull the plug on the charger and let the battery cool down, now I am witnessing the same results. When I plug the charger in without a battery it says FULL, when I put a battery in, it keeps giving me random readings. Looks like I need to stick with 18650's in these chargers only.

I'm not sure if there is a way to fix that. Sounds like something is burned out on the circuit board.
-Mike G
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#15
Are the wires from that port oke it looks like not and the pad is not oke. The green isolation is burnt off. Do a diode test to both wires at the circuitboard.
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#16
Another tip is stand them on the side when they are discharging/cycling so there is better ventilation. The underside has a heap of vent slots which when like this get heaps better air flow.
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#17
Yeah, I think someone on the forum actually put computer fans underneath theirs. I've been thinking of doing the same thing.
-Mike G
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#18
(08-27-2017, 04:13 AM)Korishan Wrote: Yeah, that rubber connector is what I was talking about needs to be aligned properly. If you took it apart before, you didn't get back together straight. ...  


I'm a Powerwall noob, but I can help with this one. 

The alignment of the rubber has a great tolerance - by design. 
Its called Zebra Strip, being made of 'stripes' of alternating conductive and insulating materials, so it can conduct straight across the strip but not along it. 
Not magic, just clever! (Though far from a novel product...)
What is important is the alignment of the display module and the pads on the circuit board (and contact cleanliness naturally). 
But as long as the strip is covering all the contacts, its alignment is non-critical. 

My Opus is on its way to me. Its first job will be to review my collection of NiMH AA & AAA cells, by which time I should have some 18650s for it to categorise!
rebelrider.mike and Korishan like this post
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#19
Just a thought. 
The 3.7 volt setting of the internal switch. 
Wouldn't that be useful for a "storage charge" with 18650s?
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#20
You can use that for storage. So Yes.
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