Beginners Guide to Processing 18650 Cells | Cell Database


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Herebus Hell Build
#11
You might find it works well.. do some tests on it.
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#12
How much did that red mounting rack cost? I've looked in to things like that before and the racks end up costing more than the panels themselves.
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#13
0.1mm could work. Im using 35AWG that is roughly 0.15mm and that one is said to be 5A and will trip fast at around 8A. 0.2mm depending on what type it is can be as high as 10-15A before it trips fast enough.

As have been said before the max a cell would give out is 3400mAh and the weight should be around 44-46gram. If the cell you buy dont have a known brand always google it. I also did a test on all cells i found on Ebay in end of last year.

if you need new cells nkon.pl could be a source to check out. (No im not affiliated with them)
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Current: 10kW Mpp Hybrid | 4kW PIP4048 | 2x PCM60x | 83kWh LiFePo4 | 10kWh 14s 18650 |  66*260W Poly
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#14
(01-31-2017, 01:42 PM)mike Wrote: How much did that red mounting rack cost? I've looked in to things like that before and the racks end up costing more than the panels themselves.

Cost of the red rack, I did this myself, brought the RHS steel from BlueScope / OneSteel (Oz), and a MIG welder (very forgiving)...no idea on the actual cost. Design was based on a calculator using the latitude...I will get shading around 4 weeks a year on the bottom of the cells...but given they are horizontal, bypass diodes should work.....This is an expected loss, as in a low latitude, panel separation in the depth of winter would have to be much larger.  Angle best suited apparently for Spring and Autumn
For the aluminium rack it works out to be about $50AUD a panel... straights, feet, clamps and earth clip.  Cutting was done using a wood circular saw...butter.

Wiring is compliant to national wiring laws.

As a warning, DC is a killer, a single string is around 350V, even at dusk. If you need to do any wiring do it at night,as the risk is not worth it.
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#15
If you haven't actually built any packs yet, you may want to consider this re. 14s over 13s if your primary draw will be an AC Inverter. The 13s will fit you more into the window that the 48V Inverters are designed around. Sure it would work fine at 3.7 volts higher, but the way most inverters are designed such that the over voltage essentially gets thrown away. Yes I'm over simplifying, but even most of the $4000+ inverters don't have a DC-DC converter on the front end. So it just uses what it needs. So in a sense you would be wasting that extra series row of cells that could be put into parallel where you could increase your current storage. Its kinda like if you have 120vAC (in the US anyway) instead of 110vac, most all appliances are designed to run on 105vac or less and don't run any better or more efficiently at higher voltages. But people go with the higher voltages so they can run long extension cords and such. But this shouldn't be a consideration in your DC setup as all your cables will be oversized right?
Just something to consider.
I will be going 14s myself, but that is just so I can do dual purpose as 24v for GP or 48v for inverter. And then I just have a 40 amp DC-DC converter to provide all the old-school 12v stuff in my RV
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#16
(02-06-2017, 01:44 AM)Aspendell Wrote: If you haven't actually built any packs yet, you may want to consider this re. 14s over 13s if your primary draw will be an AC Inverter.  The 13s will fit you more into the window that the 48V Inverters are designed around.  Sure it would work fine at 3.7 volts higher, but the way most inverters are designed such that the over voltage essentially gets thrown away.  Yes I'm over simplifying, but even most of the $4000+ inverters don't have a DC-DC converter on the front end.  So it just uses what it needs.  So in a sense you would be wasting that extra series row of cells that could be put into parallel where you could increase your current storage.  Its kinda like if you have 120vAC (in the US anyway) instead of 110vac, most all appliances are designed to run on 105vac or less and don't run any better or more efficiently at higher voltages.  But people go with the higher voltages so they can run long extension cords and such.  But this shouldn't be a consideration in your DC setup as all your cables will be oversized right?
Just something to consider.
I will be going 14s myself, but that is just so I can do dual purpose as 24v for GP or 48v for inverter.  And then I just have a 40 amp DC-DC converter to provide all the old-school 12v stuff in my RV

Thanks Aspendell, all good points.  My current thinking is going with S14 and utilising the Goodwe GW2500-BP.  A DC-DC converter sitting between the panels and the Inverter.

Currently waiting for 800 batteries from China, copper bus bars and fuse wire. I have also just purchased the remaining plastic 4x13 cell holders..to make it up to 28 modules of 52 cells.
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#17
Not down and out.

After purchasing new 18650 from China, Batteries have finally been passed by Customs in Melbourne, and on their way to Tasmania.

This is the first time I have imported anything like this via ship...and to be honest if you have a choice to pay for a  door to door service, and it seems expensive, take it, as its three times less than  dealing with the freight companies.
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#18
Smile 
Great news,

850 Batteries from  China have turned up with a mean weight of  47g.  A random sample of 4 are now in the Opus for testing their capacity.

Cheers


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#19
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(02-13-2017, 10:09 AM)Herebus Wrote: Thanks Aspendell, all good points.  My current thinking is going with S14 and utilising the Goodwe GW2500-BP.  A DC-DC converter sitting between the panels and the Inverter.

Currently waiting for 800 batteries from China, copper bus bars and fuse wire.   I have also just purchased the remaining plastic 4x13 cell holders..to make it up to 28 modules of 52 cells.

That should work, if your inverter is under 2500watts, your supply voltage for charging the pack is 150-480v DC and you don't mind losing another 5-20% of your power in conversion each way.  Also an extra 200 watts a day sitting idle.

I'll be interested to see how that works out.  Keep us updated  Smile Exclamation

If that unit is solid for you I might consider incorporating one as well.
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#20
(03-29-2017, 04:16 AM)Aspendell Wrote:
(02-13-2017, 10:09 AM)Herebus Wrote: Thanks Aspendell, all good points.  My current thinking is going with S14 and utilising the Goodwe GW2500-BP.  A DC-DC converter sitting between the panels and the Inverter.

Currently waiting for 800 batteries from China, copper bus bars and fuse wire.   I have also just purchased the remaining plastic 4x13 cell holders..to make it up to 28 modules of 52 cells.

That should work, if your inverter is under 2500watts, your supply voltage for charging the pack is 150-480v DC and you don't mind losing another 5-20% of your power in conversion each way.  Also an extra 200 watts a day sitting idle.

I'll be interested to see how that works out.  Keep us updated  Smile Exclamation

If that unit is solid for you I might consider incorporating one as well.




Thanks Aspendell, I did not realise the loss, but when you think of it, the batteries are powering both the inverter and battery charger.


The Opus test indicated around 2700mah, and with the weight, looks like I was not screwed.


Cheers


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