Beginners Guide to Processing 18650 Cells | Cell Database


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Batrium Watchmon Toolkit Think Tank!
#11
Just watched your a video Peter........ People will start talking about that guy who is mining sunlight into hash


(11-20-2017, 10:48 PM)daromer Wrote: No real need to implement extra for the shunt. Just use existing datalink. Perhaps have 2 of them Smile

Just a thought bubble.
  • ShuntMon2.1 can work standalone and you could link to a raspberry pi with a USB to TTL link cables.
  • Each Shuntmon has both power and data isolation so will only need RX/TX and USB power 5V+GND
  • ShuntMon protocol is rather low level with most of the smarts happening within WatchMon
  • But could achieve your outcome

(11-20-2017, 10:12 PM)wim Wrote: A simple one... Wink
a "real" separate ambiant temp sensor ( to turn on and off heat/cool )
The sensors on the longmons are affected by the bypass resistors and the one on the shunt gets affected by the current true it...

Hopefully your not running the longmon's in bypass all the time. Typically it should be less than 2-5 minutes per day, if more then the settings should be adjusted. The Watchmon also has a ambient temperature sensor on the it this is also configurable to run the thermal controls. Shunt temperature should also be equivalent to ambient, if not again I would investigate suitability and location placement.

(11-20-2017, 09:54 PM)hbpowerwall Wrote: My request would be 
  • EVSE charger to turn on and off via SOC
  • A pulse able to turn a computer via SOC

Smile

Not necessarily the most elegant method however like your passion! The idea of custom scripts running on the PC / Pi to trigger excess smart loads when excess power is available is a good one.

Once the wifi protocol for the bms has been published I am sure several people will come up with the scripts your hinting about.... There is a project on github that will be published very soon.. (I hope). It has mapped all the telemetry fields from binary using node.js so should be a generic sample code to get people started.
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#12
Thanks Peter

You have PM.

Thanks
Jon
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#13
External Heat Sink, that could be connected to longmon/s so instead heating cells during balancing you could dumpall heat at place you want it
also config option for it. Its not necessary but it has its uses in some cases.
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#14
(11-21-2017, 01:38 AM)Batrium Wrote: ...

Hopefully your not running the longmon's in bypass all the time. Typically it should be less than 2-5 minutes per day, if more then the settings should be adjusted. The Watchmon also has a ambient temperature sensor on the it this is also configurable to run the thermal controls. Shunt temperature should also be equivalent to ambient, if not again I would investigate suitability and location placement.

Nooo, longmons are bypassing only for 15-30min (522Ah packs) and even not every day. But when bypassing the ambiant sensor on the longmons are showing a higer temperature...
My shunt gets a bit warm (not hot) when higher currents (+100A) are present, this is normal i think.
The temperature of the watchmon is always higer than ambiant, don't know why, in my case, it's installed in "free air" ...but no issue for me.
Watchmon and shunt are in my setup located outside of the battery cabinet.
 
All this makes that the present sensors, for me, not ideal to control fans or heating (in my case only fans)
Would just be convenient to have a remote sensor dedicated to controll heating or ventilation in a separated battery cabinet.



I know, a simple thermostat will do the trick also, but i realy would like to have a extra sensor with some blinking leds Big Grin
___________________________________
18x 300Wp solar off grid and 10x 180Wp solar tracker grid-tie
10KW 3phase hybrid inverter. 25Kwh 18650 storage (for now)
My setup: http://www.diypowerwalls.com/t-Instant-powerwall
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#15
Is there something available like a temperaturederating on the charge/discharge current? i did just purchased the sw and can not jet look into it.
A temperature regulated charge/discharge current could be usefull to kepp the cells in good conditions. mainly this feature would only be usefull for smaler packs, not the big ones that run somewhere arround 0.1-0.2C even at full power
Something like dragable curves when you, as example, overclock your pc´s gpu
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#16
Batrium as such has nothing to do with your charge curve on the inverter or charger though. Thats something you need to setup on your charger.

Batrium can though be hooked into some inverters/chargers to controll the last part of charge to top it up and run bypass balance but thats it.
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#17
Yes maybe you are right, but the question was what would maybe be usefull for the future.
in general the bms shall take care of the battery. so what is the pip doing if the battery is almost frozen if it doesnt know the battery temperature? i guess it will simply charge because the battery voltage is low.

if batrium (what i think is a good bms from what i saw) would generate an allowed chargecurrent for the inverter and you could communicate this allowed current to the inverter it would be a much more save system then if the inverter just runs on his end-of-discharge-voltage or end-of-charge-voltage. thats how all bms work that i know.
Examples are: BYD B-Box-HV, Sony Fortelion, BMW i3

I though that you can control a pip in this way (saying to him: "run 15A into the battery")? Or is it wrong and you could maybe only tell him the upper/lower voltage?
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#18
The PIP have its own temperature sensor and should take care of the charge curve.
The Batrium have the same protection and you can add "Low temperature cut off" so the Batrium can disconnect the battery if needed.
As designed and as it should be Smile

A BMS does not set the charge curve as such that's up to the charger to do. Neither of the ones you mentioned are stand alone BMS systems unless Im mistaken? They are a combination of multiple things like complete with battery.

Its most likely doable to add. But the problem is the inverters to be controlled. Most of them only have 3 thresholds. (Full, limited and disabled) This to be able to top up the battery. Interesting idea though! Personally I see the BMS as the last resort for protection kind of. The inverter/charger should do its job first.

Note that PIP per default cannot be controlled good enough to runt current throttling Smile
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#19
Mhh ah okay. May you can tell me how you solve how much current the pip is then pulling out of the battery? The goal shall be 0W at from the grid if the battery soc>0. That means how does it follow your household demand?
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#20
PIP doesnt do that. PIP is an offgrid system that cannot send anything to the grid. You can potentially connect the PIP between the grid and the house. Then you set in the PIP so it uses battery + solar as first choice untill it goes below certain voltage.

For 0meter you need a grid-tie system or hybrid system. For instance the Hybrid MPI 10kW that I use, that one can have a meter in between the grid and the inverter that senses how much it should send back to the grid.

I though use an Raspberry pi to controll everything based on input from my 2 watchmons and several grid-meters. (Soon a HUGE update there...)
10K followers on Youtube before 2017 ends?!  Help me get there!
YouTube / Forum system setup / My webpage  Diy Tech & Repairs

Current: 10kW Mpp Hybrid | 4kW PIP4048 | 2x PCM60x | 83kWh LiFePo4 | 10kWh 14s 18650 |  66*260W Poly
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